September 27, 2005
EU farts in CA Wineries’ general direction
The US and the EU are at the doorstep of a trade agreement that will open the EU to an influx of American-made wine. Many differences in our wine markets have made it difficult for us to come to an agreement, especially our irreverance for their appelation names. Many folks “in the know” point out that the term Champagne only should apply to sparkling wines from the Champagne region of France. Northern California does not produce Champagne, they produce sparkling wine. The same is true for names such as Bordeaux, Burgundy, etc.
Under the provisional deal reached by EU and American negotiators in Washington two weeks ago, the two sides will mutually recognize each other’s winemaking practices, setting the stage for more detailed talks on protecting geographical indications, names of origin and the status of low alcohol wines.
The U.S. administration is to ask Congress to change the status — and limit the use of — 17 European names on American wines.
The names — Burgundy, Chablis, Champagne, Chianti, Claret, Haut-Sauterne, Hock, Madeira, Malaga, Marsala, Moselle, Port, Retsina, Rhine, Sauterne, Sherry and Tokay — are considered “semi-generic” in the United States. Once Washington has changed their status, American exporters will benefit from simplified certification of their wines in the EU.
Other issues, such as certain American winemakers use of water dilution of wine, and of using oak chips to add flavor rather than the more traditional method of fermenting in oak barrels also are causing problems. In addition, the EU is in a glut of overproduction of wine (overproduction meaning they produce too much to keep the price where they think it should be).
But what really struck me about this was the absolute scorn dripping from the lips of every European they interviewed. It was clear that they believe they, and their wines, are superior. What is odd is that they also believe that they compete with American wine. Europe: a land of contradictions…
“Water in wine is something which is unimaginable for us and unacceptable to our consumers,” said Klass, who represents the German Riesling-producing Mosel region. “We don’t need artificial wine.”
“Our winemakers will revolt against this, and they will have everyone in the south of France on the barricades,” Martinez said.
“We have been making wine since the Roman Empire, and not for a couple of hundred years like the Americans,” he said. “Wine is a civilization, it is a fine art.”
If the agreement is approved, Martinez said it would turn wine “into a chemical product, a kind of Coca Cola.”
French Liberal Democrat Anne Laperuze added: “I don’t want a McDonald’s type Chardonnay.”
Just remember, when politicians in this country want you to support protectionist practices, ask yourself whether they sound like these losers.
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New York wine regions booming
Interestingly enough, CNN’s travel published this story from my home town yesterday. Well, let the EU snobs think what they want – but they are missing out on high quality wines. Just because they have been doing it longer, doesn’t necessarly follow that they have been doing it better. The independent wineries in the US are more then capable of turning out product that hasn’t been watered down or had chemicals added to it. But to brush all American wines as “McDonald’s” wines – that is a fine example of close minded-ness.
And if anyone is interested in coming to NY for winery tours, be sure drop by for a visit.